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Health Matters
April 5, 2010
This month Ann explores what our options are when buying a puppy. She admitted that while researching this topic she was shocked (mostly) and disgusted (frequently) by how the internet has made it much easier for puppy millers to sell their stock, all the while looking like reputable breeders. Her one take away on puppy buying is that there are a lot of people out there claiming to be caring breeders and asking sky-high prices for their puppies. It all comes down to buyer beware, and in this new technological age it is harder than ever before. Keep your guard up and don't let photos of cute pups pull at your emotions, leading you to make a decision you later deeply regret.
*Standard disclaimer: while we will offer our opinions about how to best achieve optimum health for our animals, we do NOT profess to know what is better for your pet than you or your vet do! Always consult with your vet, then consult with another vet and get a second opinion (because we also believe in having options!).
How to Buy a Puppy
Now you’ve done it! You’ve examined your lifestyle, your finances, and your ability to parent and found yourself capable to care for another being for the next fifteen years. You’re going to get a life companion, a dog. Congratulations! Now what? Where are you going to get your puppy? There are basically five sources for dogs. There are the local shelters, breed rescue organizations, backyard breeders, puppy-mills, and reputable breeders.
Local shelters offer a wide variety of breeds, mixed breeds, puppies and adult dogs from which to choose. Puppies in shelters are in high demand. Sadly, however, getting a puppy from the shelter is sometimes a heart-breaking experience because of parvo, a highly contagious disease that is often prevalent in shelters. Without quick veterinary care you will lose your puppy before you can get his new name tag etched. If you are lucky enough to get a disease-free, healthy puppy, you then must face that you have no idea what type of dog you are getting. The puppy that looks like a Beagle at three months may end up being more of an Australian Shepherd when full grown. There is nothing wrong with this as long as you know going into the adoption that what type of dog you get is a bit of a crap shoot. Because puppies are what everyone wants, shelters are a great place to get an older dog. You are giving an animal a second chance at life. You can see what type of dog, physically and behaviorally, you are adopting. The cost of adopting an older dog from the pound is minimal and sometimes they often have "senior specials" for those dogs who are old enough to be collecting canine social security.
If there is one breed of dog that you know you want, a good place to begin your puppy search is with that breed’s rescue organization. Most breeds have a network of local rescues in each state and in many major metropolitan areas. Some breeds have a national rescue with individuals located around the country that foster any turn-ins. Rescues always have adult and senior dogs available, but they often take in puppies and youngsters. They are also a great source of information about the breed you are considering and they will tell you all about the health and personality issues associated with your chosen breed. If you submit an adoption application with a breed rescue, be prepared for them to do a home check to make sure you have a fenced yard and/or whatever they deem necessary for a good home for this breed. Breed rescue groups have certain standards for their potential adoptive homes based on what they know works best for their dogs, and because of that you may be told that you are not a good candidate if you don't meet their criteria. Breed rescuers want to have a good match between owner and pup that will make both dog and human happiest for the life of the dog. They will probably ask for some form of financial reimbursement for the expenses they’ve incurred with veterinary check-ups, shots, etc. The rescue will have evaluated the dog they suggest for you and can give you support knowledge regarding health matters, training and socialization. They will take back the dog if for any reason it doesn’t work out. You may have to wait a while for your pup, but it is absolutely worth the wait.
Many people get their pups from backyard breeders. These are the folks, generally a family, that runs ads in the local papers. They have bred their spaniel, Mary, with their neighbor’s spaniel, John, because they wanted their kids to see the miracle of birth and “Gosh, they made such a cute couple.” You want a pup and you want it now, so what’s the problem? The problem is that John and Mary’s owners probably know zilch about genetics, breed standards, health clearances, puppy socialization, maternity and neonatal care. What does that mean for you, the puppy buyer? It means that you will pay more than you would had you gotten your dog from a shelter or breed rescue, there is no health guarantee or right to return. It means that your new pup may have genetic or expensive health problems in its future. The breeders may or may not know anything about the temperament of the pup you chose and whether it will fit into your life, and they really don't care about either. The backyard breeder may mean well, but that doesn’t mean that he knows what he’s doing. If his dogs are not be registered with the AKC, you won't be able to register your pup either. His dogs may not be to breed standard so yours most likely won't be as well. Without health clearances on the parents you have no genetic insight into your puppy's future health issues. He may have a faulty heart, bad hips, early onset blindness, or a myriad of other problems you’re not prepared to deal with. With all of the unwanted and homeless dogs, there is no reason to buy from a backyard breeder. On a small scale, by getting a dog from a backyard breeder you are helping to support the over-population problem.
As we all know, puppy mills are evil. They are the epitome of everything that is wrong with the dog world. Puppy mills are simply the WORST place to get a puppy. Of course you would never support a puppy mill; however, if you buy a puppy in a store, you’re supporting a puppy mill. No reputable breeder will ever place a puppy for sale in a pet shop. The store employees may tell you that their pups come from good, reputable breeders certified by the USDA. That is a sure sign of a puppy mill. Pet stores charge a fortune for their puppies because they can. The puppies are cute and you are buying a dog on a whim. But all puppies are cute, even unhealthy, unfit ones from puppy mills. What you don't see is that these puppies come from a background of misery and the faster we close down these “farms” the better. The store may offer a limited health guarantee but it is generally meaningless when you try to return your puppy or get a refund because your puppy died from parvo (yes, these puppies will probably also have parvo). They will contend that you did something to make the puppy sick and since you can’t prove you didn’t, you lose. Puppy millers are backyard breeders on steroids. They not only don’t know about breed standards, they don’t care. Their job is to produce a commodity, not worry about its quality.
Puppy mills are now churning out “designer” dogs and animal rescues are inundated with the cast-offs. If you are looking for a designer dog (and let's call them what they are, very expensive mutts), you have been sold a bad bill of goods. Designer dogs, the "goldendoodles", the "puggles", the "yorkie-poo" are all other names for mixes or mutts, and the breeder is asking you to pay hundreds of dollars for the same type of crap shoot dog that you can get from the pound. Designer dogs are very much an unknown quantity - you don't know if you are getting a dog that will end up being more Poodle or Labrador. Many times people will go in search of the "doodle" dogs because they really want a Golden Retriever but their kids have allergies and they heard that Poodles are hypoallergenic (a misnomer and myth, by the way). The dog they get may or may not grow up to have a Poodle's coat - there is no way to know because of the way genetics works (read up on Mendel's work for more on that topic). If you are looking for a designer dog, go to your local shelter. They have a wide variety to choose from there.
The best place to get a purebred dog is from a reputable breeder. How do you find one? Go to a dog show, ask the people showing the breed you're looking for who they recommend. Also contact your local breed club and ask them for recommendations. When you see someone with your breed, ask them where they got their dog and if they recommend their breeder. Do NOT go online and look up breeders of your dogs. Puppy millers frequently have lovely, misleading websites filled with beautiful pictures and fabulous testimonials. Its all fantasy. It looks wonderful, but it is a lie. While puppy mills produce many breeds, they rarely show them all on one website. If you shop online, take note of the breeder's name and kennel name and then check them out with the breed club. If no one has heard of them, they’re probably a puppy mill. Call them and ask to visit. If they want to meet somewhere else, they’re probably a puppy mill. If they are willing to sell you a puppy without asking anything of you except a check, they're probably a puppy mill. A reputable breeder wants to know where each and every puppy from their kennel is going and to know that it is going to the right home. A reputable breeder will have shown his dogs and spent the time and energy to get AKC confirmation titles for his dogs. A reputable breeder is known by people in the local breed club, and if they produce truly outstanding dogs they are known on the national level, too. Look to see if there are any champions listed on the website. Other AKC titles are awarded for field trials, herding, obedience, rally, and agility. If the dogs are listed as Miss Lady x Sir Studly, it is probably a puppy mill. Good breeders love to list Ch. Miss Lady, CDX x Ch. Sir Studly UDX as the proud parents. These titles show that the breeder is committed to his animals and has taken the time to prove their worth in the various competitive fields available to that breed.
Now that you have the names of breeders, get on the phone and call them with a pen and paper in hand to make notes. This is the interview time and you should begin asking all the questions you can think of. Here are the questions I would ask:
1. What health clearances does s/he have on her breeding stock ~~ especially on the Mom and Dad of your future puppy?
2. How long has s/he been raising this breed?
3. What are his/her health guarantees?
4. What are his/her ownership requirements of you?
5. If anything happens to you, will s/he take the dog back? Under what circumstances?
6. Ask about her breeding program. How often, and why do many/few litters a year?
7. What is the average longevity of his/her dogs? Any specific “breed” diseases or conditions you should be alert for?
8. What titles do his/her dogs have? Were they bred for a particular activity? For example: Guide dogs, show dogs, obedience ring, hunting, sledding or drafting?
9. What are his/her vaccination and feeding recommendations?
10. Do you sell on a spay/neuter contract? At what age does s/he recommend spay/neutering?
11. How old are his/her dogs?
12. How many litters have the parents had?
13. How has the puppy been socialized and noise desensitized (very important for a potential hunting dog)?
14. Ask to see the kennel
15. Ask to see the pedigree papers of both parents
16. Has s/he raised any other breeds in the past?
17. Will s/he help decide which dog you’ll get? Or do you get to pick?
18. If it is to be a show dog, does s/he share in the ownership? Show costs? Breeding program?
19. Price?
Note the order of the questions. Health clearances on the parents is top priority and make sure you see the certifications, if possible. There are some disreputable breeders, and they are crafty about how they do business to make sure they appear on the up-and-up. The number of litters a breeder produces each year is also key. A good breeder may only produce one litter a year. They are breeding the best possible candidates together to produce the best possible puppies. If you are talking to someone that puts puppies on the ground four or five times a year every year, you should be wary. It doesn't mean that they are a puppy miller, but you have to wonder why they are breeding so frequently. There is an excellent chance that when you find a great breeder, if you meet their standards of being an owner to one of their pups, you will be on a waiting list for a long time. Sometimes the wait can be as long a year or two depending on how often they breed. This is not the time to be impatient. Buying the best possible puppy, probably one that you will show in conformation and obedience, is not something you rush. Back to the list of questions - see that price is at the bottom? You are probably going to pay thousands of dollars, and you are paying for quality - you are paying for the breeder's investment. This breeder is NOT making a profit off of the sale of their puppy.
Whether you go through rescue or a reputable breeder to get your puppy, a puppy is a lot of work and a lot of joy. You should savor every moment of puppy breath, downy fur and razor sharp needle teeth. Puppyhood goes by in the blink of an eye. It is only a quickly passed through phase in the lifespan of your friend and companion, and then one day you turn around and see that your puppy is a healthy, well-behaved, white-faced old man. Puppies are an investment of a lifetime.
