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Sit, Stay, READ!
March 6, 2011
Ever wished you could telepathically communicate with your dog? You can. It's easy. Just snap a leash on him. Okay, maybe he won't be able to divine that your inner-most deep secrets, but he will be able to figure out what your mood is, what you want him to do and where you want him to go. The key is to find the right leash for your dog and your purpose - even for the same dog, you should have a different leash for a nature hike than an obedience class. We cover the whys and who shoulds for each type of leash on the market.
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Leash, The Important Connection Between You and Your Dog
I remember several years ago talking with a very dog-savvy friend about a behavioral issue I was having with one of my dogs – he had begun to react negatively to strange dogs on our walks and it seemed like the intensity was getting worse with more exposure, not better as I’d hoped. My friend nodded her head and simply said, “You’re looking for the problem at the wrong end of the leash.”
She was right. The more times we encountered dogs with less-than-pleasant exchanges, the more tense I was getting. The dog picked up on it. As my friend said, “That leash is like a wire and it transmits everything you’re feeling and thinking right down to the dog. You are, unwittingly, telling your dog that there is a need to be on guard. Chill out and see if that helps.” I did (with a lot of effort at first), and eventually our walks returned to good, positive outings that we both looked forward to.
For the amount of time, energy and effort we put into training our dogs so we can happily coexist as two very different species sharing space, we don’t think too much about the tools we use. I think that the vast majority of dog owners head out to the pet store to buy a new collar and they end up deciding which one to get based on habit (the type you’ve always used), someone else’s recommendation (trainer, store employee or shelter/rescue worker’s opinion) or what catches their eye. The same thinking process applies to acquiring a leash – we buy what we’ve always bought, we buy what’s on sale or we buy something cute, maybe a blue one with sailboats.
The functional aspect of how the dog and collar and leash interact with one another rarely enters into the equation. By not paying adequate attention to the tools we use to communicate with the dog, we are doing ourselves and our dogs a major disservice when it comes time for a walk or training session. The wrong collar or leash can make an outing a less pleasant experience than it should or could be.
In case it’s been a while since you explored leash styles and options or have always relied on only one type, I’ve gone through the different leashes and explained how and on whom they work best (and who should avoid what).
Nylon leash – These are the most commonly found leashes in pet stores due to their relative economical cost. They are constructed of a strip of nylon material with a loop at one end and a snap or clip at the other. Pros: Easy to wash. Comes in countless designs and colors. Depending on the weight and thickness, they can be very durable. Generally comfortable to hold. Dogs tend to not be very interested in chewing them. Cons: Nylon can give you a nasty rope burn if your dog takes off and rips the leash through your hands. Over time, the material can begin to fray and give. Who is this good for: Every breed can use a nylon leash – this depends more on the comfort of the owner. Who should not use this: Owners with dogs that unexpectedly yank and pull (that rope burn problem).
Leather leash – A good leather leash can last for generations and be a source of pride for the owner. They, like the nylon leash, are built out of a strip of material – this time leather – with a loop at one end and a clip or snap at the other. They can be dyed different colors and/or embossed with a design. Pros: A well-made leather leash ages well and becomes more beautiful with use and time. Once the leather breaks in, holding the leash is extremely comfortable. No rope burn. Cons: Leather doesn’t have the same “pop” when delivering a correction, so it can end up being muted. A well-made leather leash can be very expensive, but again worth it when you buy one leash that lasts for decades. Dogs are attracted to the smell of leather and are prone to chewing them. Who is this good for: Every breed – again, it depends on the owner’s preference. Who should not use this: Owners whose dogs love to chew leather products.
Retractable leash (aka Flexi Lead) – This type of leash is either a ribbon or thin rope that sits within a plastic housing. They usually have snap collar attachments. They come in a variety of lengths from 16 to 26 feet and are sold based on the dog’s weight. Pros: Great for allowing your dog the freedom to roam without being off-lead. Some people find holding the plastic housing to be more comfortable and secure-feeling than a regular leash. The brake feature allows owners to control how far their dog goes out. The leash neatly retracts into a housing so there is no dangling material to trip over. Cons: A strong dog can hit the end of the leash hard enough to snap it out of its housing. Many municipal trails do not allow leashes over 6 feet long, so you won’t be able to take advantage of the extra length. The plastic housing is bulky. Tall dogs have been known to get head-bonked by the plastic housing (ouch!). Who is this good for: People who like to hike or walk on trails with their dogs, but can’t or don’t want them off-lead. Who should not use this: Dogs walking in crowded environments where the extra length would cause problems. Very strong dogs prone to chasing other animals (SQUIRREL!) when the owner wouldn’t have the ability to “put on the brake” before the dog hits the end of the lead.
Short leash – The short leash is usually made out of leather. It looks like just the loop of a regular leash with a clip or snap that attaches directly to the dog’s collar. They are generally a foot long, but some are as long as two and a half feet. Pros: Great for controlling a large, strong dog or dogs in tightly crowded situations. Close proximity to the dog can help emotionally steady a dog. Cons: Not really suitable for a daily walking leash. Doesn’t allow the dog any freedom or distance from owner. Who is this good for: Perfect for training a large, strong dog that pulls because they aren’t given any lead to build up as much force as with a six-foot leash. Who should not use this: Any dog-human pairing where using the leash would cause the owner to have to stoop over to hold the leash without pulling the dog up off the ground.
Long training leash – The opposite of the short leash, the long leash comes in lengths of 15 to 30 feet and is almost exclusively made of cotton webbing or nylon. The long leash is the tool to use in the steps between on-leash and off-leash obedience work. Pros: Provides the comfort and security of knowing the dog can’t run away while working on long distance down-stays and recall work. Cons: The long leash isn’t retractable so it can become easily tangled up and get in the way as it gets reeled in. Who is this good for: Owners who are working with dogs that have basic obedience down and are ready to take the next step but are not comfortable with the idea of completely off-leash work, especially in unfenced yards or parks. Who should not use this: In general this makes a lousy all-purpose walking leash given the tangle factor (the flexi leads are much better for this purpose).
Stretch leash – Also known as the bungee leash, elastic leash or the shock absorber leash. This leash is usually nylon over an elastic, stretchy cord that gives when the dog pulls on it. Relaxed, the leash is 6 feet; fully-extended, the leash goes out to ten feet. Pros: Great choice for when a retractable leash is too much, but the owner would like the dog to have a little more freedom of movement than a regular 6-foot leash provides. The springy nature of the leash keeps the “extra” material from getting tangled. Cons: The elastic can wear over time and snap. Not ideal for situations where the owner wants to tightly control the dog or provide feedback corrections. Who is this good for: The dog that doesn’t have a problem with chronic pulling. The owner who wants to let his dog stop and sniff without yanking on the leash. Good option for the multiple dog owner that wants to give their dogs a little extra freedom, but don’t want to hold the bulky plastic housing of the retractable leash. Who should not use this: Strong pullers or dogs that lunge. Owners and dogs in obedience training. Dogs that walk in crowded urban settings.
Double-dog leash – Also known as the coupler leash, this allows the owner to walk two dogs attached to one leash. The leash material is usually leather or nylon with one loop at one end for holding the leash and the other end is split off into two separate leashes. It is possible to buy couplers that come in a variety of distances between the dogs – as close as 6 inches up to as much as over 4 feet. Some manufactures make coupler leashes for three and four dogs. Pros: Wonderful option for the multiple dog owner who would prefer dealing with only one leash end. The coupler design keeps leashes from getting tangled up. Perfect for city street walking where the walker wants to keep the dogs from getting too far away from one another and taking up the whole sidewalk. Cons: If the dogs decide that they want to go OVER THERE, the walker needs to be strong enough to hold back the combined force of two dogs on one leash. Some dogs don’t like being too close to other dogs (even ones they live with) while on lead. The ability to correct is negated – so when the owner pulls on the leash, both dogs are getting the message. Who is this good for: Owners of multiple dogs that are relatively easy to walk (not big pullers). Cooperative dogs who look to the human for direction. Great for walking small dogs. Who should not use this: Owners of dogs with very different walking speeds (although very different sizes in NOT a problem given the amount of customization available in the coupling). Owners who want to work on obedience issues, unless the lesson focus on cooperative work. Walking through heavily forested areas/wooded hikes. Weak owners or owners with very strong pulling dogs.
Hands-Free leash - This allows the walker to attach the dog's leash to a belt that wraps around the human's waist. Generally, they are made from nylon and the actual leash part is either a regular flat leash or a bungee-style leash. Pros: Allows the owner to walk the dog and leave the hands available to carry or hold other items (great for running errands and bringing home a couple of bags of groceries). Cons: The walker has almost no control over the dog other than voice and body weight. The dog can easily pull a walker off balance with an unexpected, sudden movement. Who is this good for: Walkers and runners whose dogs are really well trained at heeling. Who should not use this: Owners of dogs that pull a lot or are unpredictable; dogs that lunge; dogs that criss-cross in front of their walkers and cause tripping.
Hopefully this overview helped introduce some new tools that you might want to incorporate you’re your routine. Also, I hope that it clarified when to use what tools for the right dog in the right situation. If you’re finding that you’ve stopped taking walks with your dog because one of your arms is getting longer than the other from the pulling, it is possible that it isn’t your or your dog’s fault – it might be that you’re just using the wrong collar. And remember, whatever you’re thinking is getting sent down that leash so make sure you’re comfortable and secure when heading out. It will make all the difference in how your dog behaves.
